中文导读

餐厅油烟很少被当成空气污染。英国生态与水文中心（UKCEH）领衔的国际团队在伦敦、北京与德里的市中心邻域测量发现：在伦敦与北京的部分区域，用餐高峰时段烹饪直接排放的细颗粒物（PM1）已超过汽车尾气；伦敦午间最高约83%、傍晚约87%，北京约61%与76%，部分时段交通尾气不足10%。德里仍以交通为主（约56%），烹饪日均约8%。研究强调：环境空气中烹饪颗粒占比仍不大（约5–10%），二次生成与外来污染依旧重要；多数官方排放清单尚未充分计入烹饪油烟。UKCEH 于2026年11月3日发布；论文见 Nature Climate and Atmospheric Science（DOI 10.1038/s41612-026-01583-6）。阅读时可留意 pollution、exhaust、vehicle、commercial、filtration 等词，以及 yet、alone 如何保留研究边界。

正文

In busy city centres, the smell of fried food usually means lunch or dinner. A new study says it can also mean air pollution. Researchers led by the UK Centre for Ecology and Hydrology found that, in parts of central London and Beijing, cooking now releases more fine particles than vehicle exhaust during peak dining hours. The findings appear in Nature Climate and Atmospheric Science and were reported by UKCEH on 3 November 2026.

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在繁忙的市中心，油炸食物的气味通常意味着午餐或晚餐。一项新研究指出，它也可能意味着空气污染。由英国生态与水文中心（UKCEH）领衔的研究发现，在伦敦中心与北京的部分区域，烹饪在用餐高峰时段释放的细颗粒物已超过汽车尾气。相关结果发表于《Nature Climate and Atmospheric Science》，并由 UKCEH 于2026年11月3日报道。

The team measured primary particles smaller than one micrometre, known as PM1. These particles can travel deep into the lungs and may enter the bloodstream. Instruments sat high above the streets: about 190 metres on London’s BT Tower, about 102 metres on a Beijing tower, and about 33 metres above a site in Old Delhi. Sensors took readings several times a second and linked air movements to nearby emissions.

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研究团队测量了直径小于一微米的一次颗粒物，即 PM1。这类颗粒可深入肺部，并可能进入血液。仪器架设在街道上方较高处：伦敦 BT 塔约190米、北京一座测塔约102米，以及德里旧城一处约33米高的站点。传感器每秒多次读数，并将气流运动与附近排放联系起来。

Mealtime patterns stood out. In London, cooking made up to 83 percent of measured particle emissions at midday and 87 percent in the early evening. In Beijing, the shares reached 61 percent and 76 percent. At some hours, traffic exhaust contributed less than 10 percent in both cities. The towers overlooked restaurant areas, and researchers think commercial frying produced most cooking smoke.

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用餐时段的模式十分突出。在伦敦，烹饪占测得颗粒物排放的比例在午间最高可达83%，傍晚可达87%；在北京，相应份额达到61%与76%。在部分时段，两座城市的交通尾气贡献都不足10%。这些测塔俯瞰餐馆区域，研究人员认为商业油炸产生了大部分烹饪烟雾。

Delhi told a different story. There, cooking averaged only about 8 percent of daily primary emissions, while traffic contributed about 56 percent. Still, cooking emissions per unit of area in Delhi exceeded central London’s in winter. Authors say traffic and other burning should remain the main targets there. In London and Beijing, decades of cleaner vehicles and tighter exhaust rules have changed the balance, so kitchens stand out more clearly.

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德里的情况不同。那里烹饪仅约占每日一次排放的8%，而交通约占56%。不过，德里单位面积的烹饪排放在冬季仍高于伦敦中心。作者指出，在德里，交通与其他燃烧仍应是主要治理对象。在伦敦与北京，数十年更清洁的车辆与更严格的尾气规则改变了排放结构，因此厨房排放显得更加突出。

The study also separates what a neighbourhood emits from what people breathe. Cooking accounted for only about 5 to 10 percent of the fine particle mass already in the air in London and Beijing. Much ambient pollution forms later when gases react, or arrives from outside the city. Cutting kitchen fumes alone will not solve every air quality problem. Yet most official inventories still leave cooking out or count only fuel, not smoke from the food.

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研究还区分了邻域直接排放与人们实际呼吸到的空气。在伦敦与北京，烹饪仅约占空气中已有细颗粒物质量的5%到10%。大量环境颗粒物是气体随后反应生成，或从城外输送而来。仅削减厨房油烟并不能解决全部空气质量问题。然而，多数官方排放清单仍未计入烹饪，或只统计燃料，而不统计食物烟雾。

Lead author Ben Langford argues that better filtration of commercial kitchen fumes could improve urban air relatively quickly. Co-author Eiko Nemitz says vehicle policies have been highly effective, which is why cooking now looks surprisingly important and poorly regulated. The measurements did not capture brake, tyre, or road wear, so traffic still matters. As cars get cleaner, cities may need to watch everyday kitchen smoke more carefully.

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第一作者 Ben Langford 认为，加强对商业厨房油烟的过滤，有望较快改善城市空气。合著者 Eiko Nemitz 表示，针对车辆的政策已非常有效，正因如此，烹饪如今显得出人意料地重要且监管不足。这些测量未覆盖刹车、轮胎或路面磨损，因此交通仍然重要。随着汽车更清洁，城市或许需要更仔细地关注日常厨房烟雾。

新闻来源

• UKCEH · Cooking is bigger source of harmful air particles than vehicle exhausts in London and Beijing (3 Nov 2026)
• NCAS · Kitchen emissions now rival traffic as a major source of urban air pollution
• Earth.com · Restaurant cooking is becoming a surprisingly major source of air pollution (4 Nov 2026)
• npj Climate and Atmospheric Science · Traffic and combustion emission controls leave cooking as a dominant local source of primary PM1 in megacities (Langford et al.; DOI 10.1038/s41612-026-01583-6)

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